Piazza del Popolo

Piazza del Popolo, the People's Square, is the grand northern gateway to the historic centre of Rome. For centuries travellers arriving along the ancient Via Flaminia passed through the Porta del Popolo and got their first breathtaking view of the city here. The square's present neoclassical shape, a vast oval framed by fountains and marble lions, is the work of architect Giuseppe Valadier in the early 19th century.

At the centre rises the Flaminio Obelisk, cut in Egypt for Ramses II and brought to Rome by Augustus to decorate the Circus Maximus; Pope Sixtus V had it moved here in 1589. Facing it at the southern end stand the twin baroque churches of Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto, which frame the famous trident of streets: Via del Corso running straight to Piazza Venezia, flanked by Via di Ripetta and Via del Babuino.

The square's understated masterpiece hides beside the north gate: the church of Santa Maria del Popolo holds two Caravaggio canvases, the Conversion of Saint Paul and the Crucifixion of Saint Peter, along with works by Raphael, Pinturicchio and Bernini. Few churches in Rome pack so much art into so small a space, and entry is free.

Take Metro Line A to Flaminio, which exits just outside the gate. After crossing the square, climb the ramps up to the Pincio terrace on the eastern edge: its balcony over the rooftops toward St. Peter's dome is one of the classic sunset views of Rome, and Villa Borghese park begins right behind it.

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